Relatively and symmetrically, the UTTE is an extremely attractive timepiece. The two new Arnold & …
This version was released for Baselworld 2017 and we discussed our initial impressions here. Here, we will go hands-on together with the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton and research what makes this watch tick, besides, you know… the dual balances.When it has to do with assessing the importance of this watch, I believe it crucial to look at the brand’s history. Arnold & Son was founded in 1764 by John Arnold in London’s Strand. Arnold named this watch the “No. 1,” beginning a naming convention he’d use for his significant timepieces going forward.By 1772, an Arnold “No. 3” chronometer was aboard Captain Cook’s boat when he set out for his second trip across the Pacific, along with Arnold chronometers would go to accompany a number of other significant voyages over the following decades. His son, John Roger Arnold, started studying watchmaking under Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1792 and joined his father’s company four years later. Breguet became a fantastic friend of John Arnold and both collaborated on equilibrium designs, the overcoil balance spring, and the tourbillon, though Arnold died in 1799 earlier this concept could be realized. To mourn his departure, Breguet introduced his son with the very first tourbillon escapement mounted within an Arnold pocket chronometer, which also conveys a personal inscription and is now displayed in the British Museum in London.
The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton is the newest addition to the DBG (Double-Balance GMT) collection which we reviewed the original, non-skeletonized variant of in greater detail back in 2013. For those unfamiliar with this piece, it’s essentially two motions which share a winding platform, housed in 1 watch. Skeletonized, this watch looks amazing and is the best illustration of Arnold & Son’s persistent progress.First, a tiny bit more about Arnold & Son’s DBG system. Each time display is powered by its own barrel, with its own equipment train, escapement, and balance, while sharing a single winding system. Even though this isn’t always unprecedented, due to the offsets of these shared elements compared to the individual parts, it isn’t always pretty, and rarely skeletonized. But with all the DBG Skeleton, we see virtually perfect symmetry on the dial along with caseback.The unusual nature of the in-house A&S1309 movement allows for some additional mechanical and practical advantages. For example, because of the separate socket, gear train, and escapement/balance, the GMT function includes a “minutes” hand rather than the conventional 24-hour counter only. Every time zone display in the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton can be set to incremental quarters of the hour. So for some Indian, Australian, and Canadian time zones that are off by half-hours, for instance, the watch can account for this. Additionally, the Equation of Time screen at 12 o’clock decides the gap between each screen, as well as whether it is day or night in the second time zone. The A&S1309 defeats at 21,600bph and features a 40-hour power book.
The case measures in at 44mm, will be available in rose gold, also is water-resistant around 30m. The dial is totally skeletonized with dual accounts put against C?tes de Genève stripes, giving a nice contrast and additional girth. The time zone indicators, as with previous versions, differ with Arabic and Roman numerals against an increasingly popular smoked backdrop. I believe these include an eclectic touch to virtually identical parts of the watch. Considering that the motion does feature separate time zone components, each time zone is handled by its own crown, or “ears” as some enthusiasts refer to them, at 3 and 9 o’clock. Every time zone is set using its individual crown, while the watch is wound solely by the crown at 3 o’clock. It manages to exhibit the complex and striking details of quite a complex timepiece without delving into the “too busy” category that many tend to fall into if tackling such a intricate endeavor. While I can definitely see a white gold or platinum alternative in the future, I think this is a welcome addition to the collection, and one I would be excited to wear. 1DGAP. S10A.C120P is going to be limited to 30 pieces and will carry a price of $38,850 that is actually a few thousand dollars less than what the original DBG see in gold cost.
Skeletonizing a wristwatch is no simple feat. And it is doubly hard for an ultra-thin movement, largely because the motion is already so sparse that removing any more material is likely to affect structural rigidity. Because of this, the A&S8200 calibre from the Arnold & Son UTTE Skeleton watch needed to be thoroughly redesigned and re-engineered. The result is the A&S8220 calibre, which steps 3.3mm thick. The extra thickness, according to Arnold & Son, is necessary to ensure rigidity as they hunted to skeletonized the movement. However, let us face it, 3.3mm for a tourbillon motion with two barrels and a power reserve of 90 hours is badly impressive.The new A&S8220 calibre boasts a few major revisions. For instance, the principal plate has been heavily modified to reveal as much as possible of their internal workings. But perhaps what is most visible to owners is the tourbillon cage was totally reworked to show off more of this mechanism while keeping the three-dimensional design which has become a signature of the earlier Arnold & Son UTTE watch. In addition, the tourbillon cage is relatively large as compared to the movement. It measures 14mm across, while the movement itself is 32mm. This implies it is the single most dominating component of the dial, and on top of this is the simple fact that the crate is totally hand-polished and chamfered, making it a true visual treat for owners.And because you would expect, the A&S8220 calibre can also be treated to the finest haute horlogerie finishing: The principal plate and bridges are constructed using nickel silver and completed with C?tes de Genève rayonnantes; The borders will also be polished and chamfered; The steel components, gears, and ratchets are all satin-finished using their borders polished and chamfered; The screws have bevelled and polished heads, and ultimately, the stones are put in polished countersinks; Reading of the time is done off a sapphire disc with printed numerals at 12 o’clock; The hour and minute hands are golden and feature white lacquered hints.
|Brand||Arnold & Son|
|Case material||Pink gold|
|Location||United States of America, New York, New York|
|Price||Price on request|
|Case material||Pink gold|
|Case diameter||44 mm|
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This brand new Arnold & Son Time Pyramid 1TPAR.S01A.C125A is a beautiful men’s timepiece that is powered by a mechanical movement which is cased in a rose gold case. It has a round shape face, dial and has hand dots style markers. It is completed with a leather band that opens and closes with a tang buckle.
This watch comes with original box and papers. It ships worldwide with 30 day hassle free return and backed by a three year warranty provided by Chronostore.
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