The dial of this Pelagos is really where you can make the most differentiation points …
Another decorative bit on the LHD that I really like is the reddish “Pelagos” text onto the dial. This is actually ironic since I lately criticized Rolex to do the same thing about the new Sea-Dweller 126600. I find the red text for a bit more distracting on the Sea-Dweller, and I also believed that it had been too much of a direct nod to a classic Sea-Dweller that is valuable now only because it is not as common. The 43mm broad Sea-Dweller is a cool watch for sure, but it doesn’t actually innovate — at least not as much as the Pelagos. So that the red text on the Pelagos is not only a little more aesthetically attractive in my view, but also feels like a less obvious nod to the past and doesn’t seem to attempt to define the opinion as much in the Pelagos since it does the new Sea-Dweller. Again, it wouldn’t prevent me from actually enjoying the Sea-Dweller, but in regards to $10,000 plus luxury watches, we’re entitled to be extremely picky.What also captured my attention with all the Pelagos LHD is your beige-colored hour markers, bezel markers, and hands. The off-white look is somewhat easier on the eyes than the stark white of their normal Pelagos versions, but retains an exceptional degree of contrast with the matte black dial — which makes for very good legibility. More so, the combination of black, titanium gray, and beige colours, in my view, works together very nicely.
Originally introduced with a red bezel (then variants including bronze and black), the Tudor Black Bay is now cleaner and sleeker with a new stainless steel bezel. While not a significant change to an existing model, the Black Bay Steel offers a new look and function for practically the same affordable price tag.
The basics of the Black Bay Steel are identical to most of the other Black Bay watches: a steel 41mm case rate to 200m, snowflake hands, matte black dial with the depth rating in red, and an in-house movement.
Two elements set it apart, the more obvious being the bezel. The insert on the elapsed time diver’s bezel is stainless steel finished with circular brushing. The markings on the bezel are engraved and then filled with black lacquer, or red in the case of the triangle at 12.
Most bezel inserts on dive watches are aluminium (or increasingly ceramic), just like the coloured bezels on the other Black Bay models. But anodised aluminium is prone to fade with time, resulting in washed out colours that collectors of vintage watches adore (hence the “ghost” bezels). Steel, on the other hand, is fade-resistant and essentially eternal, apart from general wear.
But more important than its metallurgical qualities is the clean, functional appearance of the steel bezel, which makes the Black Bay Steel its own watch.
Many of the other Black Bay models are obviously retro inspired, modern watches that carry the style of something historical. In contrast, the Black Bay Steel has a modern look and feel, making it more original, largely thanks to the steel bezel.
And importantly, the Black Bay Steel has a date window at three o’clock. It’s a practical feature that often looks out of place in vintage remake watches, as on the Longines 1918 for instance. But because the Black Bay Steel feels contemporary, the date window looks at home.
Inside the Black Bay Steel is the MT5612, a COSC-certified automatic calibre that’s part of the in-house MT56 family of movements, which power most of the Black Bay range.
Built to be a reliable workhorse that’s functional and affordable, the MT5612 has a silicon hairspring and free-sprung balance. More evidently convenient to the wearer are its three-day power reserve, and date mechanism that allows setting at any time, even midnight.
Price and availability
The Black Bay Steel (ref. 79730) will reach stores June 2017. Prices will be SFr3300 for the model on a leather strap and SFr3600 for the same on a steel bracelet – that’s just SFr100 over that of the model sans date.
Both versions are accompanied by an additional fabric NATO-style strap in olive green.