Be careful following the herd:Patek Philippe scoff at the Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph watch …
Last year Patek Philippe’s showstopper Basel release was the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time replica watch. Perhaps the most notable feature of Patek’s foray into the world of aviation watches was just how polarising it was.
The 5930G is a very safe watch for Patek – combining two complications the brand is famous for, with an exquisitely designed and executed dial, all wrapped up in an elegant 39.5mm white gold case. It’s a watch that has met with nothing but praise since it was announced. Fast-forward to Basel 2016 and Patek’s headline release, the reference 5930G World Time Chronograph is about as far removed from the Calatrava Pilot as possible.
While diehard PP fans quickly dug into the archives to prove the wildly off-brand model actually had a forebear, most of the Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph replica watch world issued a pretty heavy shrug – yeah, it was a pilot, sure to draw a younger crowd, but it was also in white gold and not at a price point that was going to unlock younger wallets. In other words, it created conversation. It was genuinely divisive.
Patek Philippe have made a world time chronograph copy watch before, but that was a unique piece made way back in the 1940, so it was well past time for them to revisit the combination. Both chronograph and world time complications traditionally require a whole lot of real estate on the dial, so combining the two in one watch without creating an illegible mess is quite a challenge. The world time complication, executed in the classical style invented by Louis Cottier allows for a lot of information to be relegated to the edges of the dial, keeping the centre free for that stunning blue hand-guilloched finish. It’s a blue that has great character in real life. In these pictures it looks quite dark, but if you only saw the press pictures you’d be forgiven for thinking that the dial was electric blue. In reality it sits somewhere between the two – brighter than navy, with iridescent flashes when it catches the light just right. One that Patek has overcome quite successfully. The chronograph has been pared back to a single 30-minute counter and the central seconds hand, with white ring indicating eighths of a second nestled between the city disc and the 24-hour ring.
On the wrist, the Swiss fake Patek Philippe 5930G World Time Chronograph wears amazingly well.
For our take on Patek Philippe’s True collection, read here.