Sibling rivalry Angus Davies reviews the new IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar replica watch, the first …
The original Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante from 1995.
The first IWC Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante watch was introduced in 1995 and last seen in the IWC catalog in 2006. However, IWC has just announced that it is bringing its Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante back, with not just one, but three extremely limited edition pieces that celebrate its boutiques in three of Europe’s most iconic cities – Milan, Paris, and Munich.
What’s even more impressive is that these aren’t just three of the same watch with different case backs or engravings. Nothing of that sort here. IWC has gone the distance and what we have here are three distinctly different watches with different dials and vibes.
First up is the Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Edition “Boutique Milano,” which marks the opening of its new boutique in the city of Milan, one of the most important fashion capitals of the world.
The Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Edition “Boutique Milano” features a 41mm red gold case with a blue dial and is unique because of its telemeter scale on the flange of the dial, and a tachymeter scale on the inner part of the dial. Because of its use of precious metal and its dial configuration, it is arguably the most desirable of the trio.
The Edition “Boutique Rue de la Paix” and Edition “Boutique Munich” are both based on the original Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante watch from 1995 and have 41mm stainless steel cases.
The Edition “Boutique Rue de la Paix” has a slate dial and is paired with a black alligator strap, while the Edition “Boutique Munich” has a blue dial and is paired with a blue alligator strap.
It’s a little-known fact that prior to the Ingenieur premiered in 1955 IWC had generated some military pilot watches with soft-iron cages in order to look after the moves from the ever more powerful magnetic fields present in the ever-more created and better-equipped cockpits of the 1940s. Ditching the pilot watch DNA the IWC Ingenieur has been a handsome-looking dress watch designed more for – you guessed – engineers compared to pilots. The collection received its most notable overhaul in 1976 when Gerald Genta redesigned it but that is a different story.All this was to mention that matters are going back to basics in the exact same way as we discovered using all the old-new Da Vinci (hands-on here): the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40mm, closest to the first among the four new versions, offers a fantastic conservative size (most especially the exact same as a Rolex Submariner) with an “IWC caliber 35111” beating indoors. The 35111 is a foundation Sellita SW300 which then is a ETA 2892 clone, which helps explain some of the cost gap between the Ingenieur Automatic along with the Submariner. It runs in 4Hz and offers 42 hours of power reserve, ensuring it will not be a top choice for those searching for a more modern movement in this cost segment.The IWC Ingenieur Chronograph is essentially the non-limited re-release of past season’s limited editions — references IW380802, IW380801, and IW380803 as noticed previously. They’re a modest 42mm wide, clad in stainless steel or 18k red gold and sport what’s a considerable 120m depth score. Interior is what we’re advised to be an all-new movement known as the IWC Caliber 69375.
All three watches are powered by the hand-wound caliber 76240, which is essentially a modified Valjoux 7750 that features a split-seconds chronograph function and a power reserve of 44 hours. Additionally, all three watches also have solid case backs engraved with the icons of their respective cities.
The Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Edition “Boutique Milano” is available now and is limited to just 100 pieces. Price is €21,500. The Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Edition “Boutique Rue de la Paix” is coming later this month and will be limited to 250 pieces. The Portugieser Chronograph Rattrapante Edition “Boutique Munich” is also limited to 250 pieces and will be available this coming Spring. Price for both is coming soon. iwc.com