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April 3, 2018

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Since Cartier reinvigorated its fine watchmaking department eight years ago, it has surprised us each year with one great complicated watch after another. This year, Cartier had a different kind of surprise: a resurrection of the Panthère de Cartier, which had been discontinued in the early aughts. Aside from a new Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon (new in the sense that these complications are combined for the first time), the Cartier Panthère De Cartier was the main introduction at SIHH this year, making it clear that ladies’ watches aren’t second tier in marketing strength or sales.

When you look at the state of the watch industry over the past year, the reintroduction of the Panthère De Cartier is not all that surprising. Like the Tank, Santos, and other iconic volume collections, the Cartier Panthère is a bread-and-butter core collection: a sure thing in an unsteady market. With multiple references and price points, it is exactly what the market seems to call for, again, at the moment.

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The Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic view was introduced in 2012 and added a larger, mechanical solution to the quartz Tank Solo. The Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic initially featured the automated Cartier 049 calibre, which is an ETA 2892. However, Cartier has confirmed with us when the Cartier Clé introduced the in-house 1847 MC movement in 2015 lots of basic models were quietly fitted with the new motion – including the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic. It is odd not that Cartier chose not to announce that change, but that they do not even make the data publicly available – their site now says little more than “mechanical movement with automatic winding” for the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic. The 1847 MC movement is apparently positioned as a workhorse to choose the place of ETA movements found in a range of Cartier collections, and with a diameter of 25.6mm, it will fit about anywhere an ETA 2992 or 2824 would. Bidirectional automatic winding, 42 hours of power reserve, operating at 4Hz with fundamental minutes and date are welcome modern features and appropriate for an entry level collection. The Cartier 1847 MC seems to largely receive just basic decoration, but you won’t see it here anyhow due to the solid caseback of the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic. An in-house motion should add interest and value for enthusiasts, and more so since the switch from a sourced movement wasn’t accompanied by a shift in price.Standard for a modern luxury watch, antireflective sapphire crystal protects the dial, along with the crown with its faux spinel cabochon is essentially unchanged from the first Tanks. The dial is what Cartier calls silvered opaline, also it provides a satiny backdrop for its black Cartier Roman numerals with no glistening reflections to hamper legibility.
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The Cartier Watches Cost Replica Panthère was originally introduced in 1983, and the relaunch design is exactly the same as the original: square case with screws on the bezel, Roman numerals, railway track index, and a tiny Cartier logo embossed in the X digit – distinguishing it from the counterfeits. Only the bracelet construction is new – it is more supple. All the movements are quartz, which keeps the watch elegantly thin, and true to the original design, which came into being at the height of the quartz era.

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Cartier Panthère De Cartier Watches Hands-On Hands-On

The new Panthère de Cartier is a full collection in three sizes with a pavé version, a lacquer and gold version, a yellow gold version – a star of the original collection – and a two-tone model, with prices ranging from $4,000 to $140,000.

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Cartier Panthère De Cartier Watches Hands-On Hands-On

Cartier Panthère De Cartier Watches Hands-On Hands-On

Cartier Santos Galbee steel and gold watch – image credit George Cramer, used with permission.

The Santos is also an iconic square-cased Cartier watch with Roman numerals and visible screws on the bezel, and at least one person I spoke to was confused about its similarity to the Cartier Panthère, so it’s worth showing the Santos here for comparison. The differences are subtle. The size of the bezel and screws are much smaller on the Cartier Panthère than on the Santos, and the lugs are more tapered, as is the crown. And on the Santos, there is no border on the railroad track index. (Although there was a border on the index of the original Santos watch created in 1904).

The Santos was created for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, a friend of Louis Cartier, to enable him to time his flight legs without having to take his hand off the controls to reach for his pocket watch. It was a hit in Parisian society, and Cartier launched it commercially a few years later. The Santos-Dumont’s square shape was revolutionary for its time, and thus began Cartier’s adventure into the world of shaped watches.

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Cartier Panthère De Cartier Watches Hands-On Hands-On

Cartier Watches Expensive Replica Panthère Joueuse.

Although the Cartier Panthère volume collection was created in 1983, Cartier has been making jeweled Panther-themed watches since even before it created the Santos watch in 1904 – the only men who were wearing wristwatches at the time were soldiers in the South African Boer War, and that was because Africa’s climate was too hot for a waist coat, where a man’s pocket watch is properly kept. Cartier continues its tradition of jeweled Panther watches every year. This year, the new jewelry creations included, most notably, the Royale and the Joueuse. The Cartier Panthère Royale was inspired by a famous panther and sapphire brooch made by Cartier in 1949 for the Duchess of Windsor. It is designed in concentric circles set with diamonds surrounding a panther also set with diamonds and lacquer.

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Cartier is going to be releasing the Panthère de Cartier line in June 2017 with 16 pieces that are designed to appeal to virtually every possible segment of the market. Just to keep it simple, we’ll go through the 22mm smaller models first followed by the 27mm versions.

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Cartier Panthère De Cartier Watches Hands-On Hands-On

Prices for the 22mm Cartier Panthere de Cartier watches are as follows. The all-steel model ref. WSPN0006 is $4,000; 18k yellow gold and steel two-tone ref. W2PN0006 is $7,350; 18k rose gold ref. WGPN0006 is $19,900; 18k yellow gold ref. WGPN0008 is $19,900; 18k rose gold with diamonds ref. WJPN0008 is $23,700; 18k white gold with diamonds ref. WJPN0008 is $25,400; the interesting-looking 18k rose gold with black lacquer ref. WGPN0010 is $24,900; and  the all white gold and diamond ref. HPI01129 is $81,000.

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Prices for the 27mm Cartier Panthère de Cartier watches: all-steel model ref. WSPN0007 is $4,600; 18k yellow gold and steel-two tone ref. W2PN0007 is $8,100; 18k rose gold ref. WGPN0007 is $23,000; 18k yellow gold ref. WGPN0009 is $23,000; 18k rose gold with diamonds ref. WJPN0009 is $27,400; 18k white gold with diamonds ref. WJPN0007 is $29,400; 18k rose gold with black lacquer ref. WGPN0011 is $28,900; 18k white gold and diamonds ref. HPI01130 is $112,000; and all 18k white gold & diamonds with black lacquer ref. HPI01096 is $141,000. cartier.com



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